Editorial Review
Cuco's (San Francisco, CA)
Score: 9.5 / 10 Reviewed by: Cate
In no uncertain terms, Cuco's plantain burrito is the best vegetarian burrito in the city. Maybe the world. Okay, that last part was hyperbole, but it is my favorite vegetarian burrito. It’s also a burrito that could satisfy even the most stubborn carnivore.
If you haven't noticed, a few of us at Burritophile have a pronounced emotional attachment to Cuco's. It's a great neighborhood spot, family run and friendly. I lived a few blocks away during my first year in the city, so Cuco's sort of holds a special place in my heart as my first go-to burrito spot. On my first Christmas Eve in the city, I brought Mrs. Cuco and her children homemade cookies.
Of course, none of this would matter if Mrs. Cuco didn't make a badass slab. Yes, this is the Samuel L. Jackson of burritos. Especially if you get it with black beans. Hah!
Anyway, I think the secret of her plantain burrito is its freshness. She slices up and sautees an entire plantain as you order it, so it hits your burrito hot and moist. Kind of like your mom.
If you're really lucky, Mrs. Cuco will cook the fruit long enough for the edges to get carmelized -- chewy, sweet goodness. This is the other key reason the plaintain burrito is so successful, particularly in vegetarian burrito terms. The fruit lends an element of flavor and texture to the mix that you just don't find in most grilled veggie burritos. The sweet, earthy taste of the plantains is a perfect match for the rest of the ingredients. Black beans and plantains are a classic combination; I'm surprised you don't find it at more taquerias. Maybe it's too labor intensive. Oh, by the way, you'll wait about seven minutes for your plantain to cook, so have a seat.
Even the Samuel L. Jackson of burrito ingredients needs a supporting cast, and the rest of Cuco's ingredients fill the tortilla out nicely. The beans can be a little wet, which makes for a messy dining experience, but oh well. As for her guac...well...no one's perfect. Crema is the way to go with a plantain burrito anyway. Beware of the spicy pico de gallo, the spice level varies every day. If you ask for hot and Mrs. Cuco raises an eyebrow and says "You sure?" -- heed the warning. On the bright side, at least we know it's fresh.
On average, I would say Cuco's plantain burritos weigh about 2.5 pounds. If you're in the mood for a lighter meal, the regular vegetarian is great as well, owing to the overall quality of her base ingredients.
–Cate
posted 10/18/2005 2:00 PM, updated on 9/18/2006 10:33 PM
